Spain is my home away from home. When I was 18 I went to college there, and although I didn't finish at that time, I remained in Pamplona for 9 years. One of the things I find most important is to nurture friendships, so I still to this day have great friends who feed me and house me when I go back. There is something terribly important to me about being with people who knew me when I was young and adventurous, long hair streaming, hitch-hiking to Morocco or Germany on a whim. Those friends are such a joy to be around, because in my mind we are all still in our twenties. Just because our faces don't match, doesn't mean we aren't the same "kids" we always were! I love to see how smart and successful they are, and that they have wonderful and good lives. We are all so very very lucky.When I got to Madrid, I had to spend one night in a pension because my friends were out of town and I was seeing them on my way home. The pension I found was right next to Atocha train station, because I was catching a 7:30 AM train to Pamplona. Oh man, this pension was a riot! Of course it was in the old section of Madrid (well, it's ALL old over there, but you know what I mean), cobblestone streets, lots of bars and restaurants and street activity, the pension up one floor. My suitcase was huge (for me), but I got it up the flight, registered, and was shown to my room. The door to my room was so narrow that both my suitcase and I had to turn sideways to get in! It couldn't have been more than six feet square, with a bed crammed between two walls, a miniature shower and ridiculously tiny sink. The toilet was down the hall. This room cost me $55, and all I could picture was the fairly nice Holiday Inn room I could get in Denver for $49.95. The doll-sized TV was perched atop the armoire (oh yes, an armoire AND a nightstand were crammed in there!) It was hilarious.
A week in Pamplona followed, where I was treated like a queen as always. I got to see several old friends, ate all my favorite foods (including bleu cream cheese, locally made chorizo, and the best chocolate in the world). The food of northern Spain is so delicious, and I try to replicate it but can never get it just right. Tapas have become elaborate mini-meals, and are irresistible. I spent most of the time walking around my neighborhood, which is the oldest part of Pamplona and where the bulls run every July. Pamplona's old town is being renovated beautifully, with all the facades of the ancient buildings getting fresh faces and new, safe balconies for bull-watching. The Cathedral, too, is getting a facelift and all the bells are being refurbished, so there was a bell concert on the last day they were there before being removed. I lived no farther than 500 yards from that Cathedral for 7 of my 9 years there, so as I listened to those bells I felt as though I was truly home again. Next time I go to Pamplona, they will be back inside a beautifully restored Cathedral. I can't wait!
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